How to remove vw Amarok front shock VW AMAROK

mate, front shocks aren't too bad on the Amarok - basically jack it up, remove wheel, undo the lower shock bolt first, then disconnect sway bar link and ABS bracket if they're in the way, hit the upper ball joint spindle with hammer to crack it loose, pull out CV shaft bolts (use M12 spline), then undo top strut nut and whole assembly comes out.

I did mine last year without removing CV on passenger side but driver side was tight, had to wiggle it a bit. Take your time with those rusty bolts mate, WD40 is your friend.

For the EGR on 2012 model - you can't just blank it off with a plate, even with a hole in it, the ECU will throw codes. You need proper software tuning to disable it AND physical blanking plates on the EGR pipes plus bypass the coolant lines that run through EGR cooler, otherwise you risk cracking your cylinder head from water getting into combustion chamber.

EGR delete is tricky on these 2.0 engines, my cousin tried just blocking it and engine light kept coming on. Ended up getting a proper kit with coolant bypass and remap done by someone who knew what they were doing.

shock job took me about 2 hours per side in my garage, not rushed. The top strut nut can be stubborn so have a breaker bar ready.

@user_94291 Just to add on EGR - if you only do software delete without physical blocking, carbon buildup means it won't seal properly and you'll still get issues. The proper kits reroute the water pipes so coolant doesn't go through EGR cooler anymore.​

I wouldn't mess with EGR unless you really know what you're doing or know someone reliable. My neighbor did his improperly and had blow-by issues afterward, cost him way more to fix.

Front shock removal is straightforward once you've done it once. Just remember to support everything properly with jack stands, don't rely on just the jack. And crack all bolts loose before fully removing anything.

@Harry.B spot on with the process. One tip - leave the spindle attached to ball joint initially, makes undoing CV shaft easier. And yeah those six CV bolts are a pain, do two at a time then rotate the disc rotor to access the next pair.

For EGR I'd say either leave it alone if it's working fine, or go full proper delete with blanking kit + remap. Half measures just cause headaches down the line, trust me.

@george.evans exactly, the coolant bypass is crucial part most people miss. Without it you're asking for trouble even with remap.

when you put new shocks in, don't fully tighten lower strut bolt until vehicle is back on ground with full weight on suspension, otherwise geometry will be off.​