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Stabiliser Bushing Replacement HYUNDAI GETZ (TB)

HYUNDAI GETZ (TB) 1.6
@Gohard
22.01.2022 12:14
Member
How do I Change the Front Stabiliser Bushings on my 2006 Hyundai Getz TB 1.6L. Please. Cheers Mark.

Started

22.01.22

Latest reply

04.04.26

Replies

12

Views

522

  • @craig.mills
    04.04.2026 18:37
    Member
    hey mark it is actually a bit of a tight squeeze on the getz because the subframe kind of gets in the way of the rear bolts on those brackets. i did mine on a 2005 1.3 last year which is basically the same setup as your 1.6 petrol. first thing you want to do is get the front up on stands and take both wheels off so there is no tension on the bar. if you only lift one side the anti roll bar will be twisted and you will never get the new bushings in place properly. i found that spraying the bolts with some wd40 or similar penetrating oil the night before helps a ton because they get rusted up being so low down. once you are under there you will see the metal straps holding the rubber. the front bolt is easy but that rear one is the headache. i ended up using a long extension and a swivel joint to get enough leverage. when you pull the old ones out check the bar for any deep pitting or rust. i cleaned mine up with some emery cloth and used a bit of silicone grease inside the new bushings so they dont squeak. do not use petroleum based grease though as it eats the rubber over time.
    • @Adrian_Graham
      04.04.2026 18:44
      @craig.mills
      Member
      is spot on about the subframe clearance. on my 2006 tb i actually found it easier to slightly loosen the rear subframe bolts just a few turns to let it hang a tiny bit lower. you dont need to take them out completely just enough to get a ratcheting spanner onto that rear bracket bolt. i tried doing it without lowering it at first and just ended up rounding the head of the bolt which turned a one hour job into a whole afternoon of swearing ๐Ÿ˜…
    • @Webb
      04.04.2026 19:03
      @Adrian_Graham
      Member
      did you have to support the engine when you loosened the subframe? i need to do mine soon because the mot mentioned the rubbers are perishing.
    • @terry.jackson22
      04.04.2026 19:11
      @Webb
      Member
      you dont need to support the engine just for the stabiliser bushings. the engine mounts are separate so the subframe will stay put even if you loosen those rear bolts a bit. just be careful not to back them out too far. also @Gohard when you are tightening the brackets back down make sure the car is back on its wheels or at least have the suspension compressed with a jack. if you tighten them with the wheels hanging in the air the rubber will be under constant twist when you drop it down and they will fail way faster. i learned that the hard way with a passat i used to own.
  • @colin_gray93
    04.04.2026 18:51
    Member
    hab das auch schon hinter mir. mine were clunking like crazy over every little bump in the road. i went with febest parts first because they were cheap but they started creaking after two months so i swapped them for a set of moog ones and they have been silent for ages. @Gohard make sure when you put the new ones on that the split in the rubber is facing the right way. usually it faces the front of the car but check how the old ones are sitting before you yank them off.
  • @Wayne 88 Collins
    04.04.2026 19:17
    Member
    Collins i just did the links and bushings together on my 1.6 getz at 140k miles. honestly if you are going through the trouble of doing the bushings you might as well swap the drop links too. i used lemfรถrder links and the difference in handling was massive. the old ones looked okay but the joints were totally floppy once i got them off the car.
    • @RaymondShaw ๐ŸงŠ
      04.04.2026 20:51
      @Wayne 88 Collins
      Member
      totally agree. i had a weird knocking sound that i thought was the bushings but it turned out to be the ball joints in the links. ended up replacing everything with blue print parts. they are decent quality for korean cars. @Gohard just a heads up that the bolts for the brackets are 12mm or 14mm usually and they can be really soft so make sure your socket is seated perfectly before you give it the beans.
  • @derek/burton
    04.04.2026 20:58
    Member
    had the same issue on my daughters getz. i didnt bother lowering the subframe i just used a offset ring spanner and took it slow. it is only about an eighth of a turn at a time but you get there eventually. i used a bit of dish soap to slide the new rubbers onto the bar which worked a treat. once it dries they stay put nicely and it doesnt damage the material like some greases do.
  • @jeffrey_osborne94
    04.04.2026 21:07
    Member
    i remember doing this on a friends car and the hardest part was actually getting the new rubber to seat inside the metal clamp because the new ones are so much thicker than the compressed old ones. i used a g-clamp to squeeze the bracket down enough to get the first bolt started. once you have a few threads in it pulls itself together. also check your sway bar diameter before buying the parts because i think there are two different sizes for the getz depending on the engine size and i almost bought the wrong ones. the 1.6 usually takes the 20mm or 22mm ones but better to measure with a caliper if you can reach it.
    • @geo44rey___n.
      04.04.2026 21:15
      @jeffrey_osborne94
      Member
      good point about the sizing. i remember mine being a tight fit. it is a satisfying job once it is done though because that annoying rattling disappears instantly. peace and quiet at last ๐Ÿ‘
  • @DHuDsoN
    04.04.2026 21:22
    Member
    just be ready for a lot of dirt falling in your face while you are lying under there. wear some goggles or you will be picking grit out of your eyes for a week. it is a straightforward job but just fiddly because of the space. i used a wire brush to get the road grime off the threads before trying to unscrew anything.
  • @BernardBoyle
    04.04.2026 21:28
    @Gohard
    Member
    just take your time with it. the 2006 model is old enough now that those bolts might be really seized. if they dont budge with a normal wrench dont force it too hard or you will snap the head off and then you are in real trouble. use some heat if you have a torch or just keep soaking them in oil. i did mine and it took way longer than expected just because of the rust. swapped to some polyurethane ones i found online and they feel much stiffer than the stock rubber ones which is nice for the corners. โœŒ๏ธ
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