REPLACING DISTRIBUTOR CONDENSER TOYOTA

My hilux 1rz 2002 model bakkie has a problem with the distributor condenser. Am not able to find the replacement locally. The one in the market is for older hilux which has 2 wires. The one I want has 3 wires. Is it possible to replace a 3 wires distributor condenser with a 2 wires condenser?

I went through this exact headache with my 2001 Hilux 1RZ about two years ago. It is extremely confusing because Toyota changed these ignition components slightly between markets and specific years right before the Vigo shape came out.
Here is what I did and it has been working perfectly for 40,000 km. You absolutely can use the 2-wire condenser, but you have to wire it carefully. On your truck harness, you likely have a Black/Red wire (Ignition signal), a White/Black (Ground), and maybe a shielded braid or a third solid wire (often Brown or Black) which is the shield ground.
The 2-wire condenser just needs the Signal and the Ground. I bought a standard Denso 2-wire condenser (the square type) because I do not trust the cheap unbranded Chinese ones for ignition parts. I cut the connector off my old broken 3-wire unit to reuse the plug. I soldered the Signal wire of the new condenser to the signal pin of the plug, and the Ground to the ground pin. The third wire (shield) from the harness side I just taped up and left disconnected. The engine runs smooth as silk. The only side effect is that AM radio might have a slight buzz, but who listens to AM anyway?
Just make sure you mount it securely. I used a dab of silicone on the bracket because the 2-wire one was slightly smaller physically than the original 3-wire unit. Don't let it rattle or the leads will fatigue and snap.

@jack_preston is right about the noise filter function. I had a similar issue on a 2RZ where I thought the condenser was faulty because of a weak spark. Turned out it was actually the igniter module starting to fail when hot.
Before you cut any wires @user_469432, are you sure it is the condenser? Usually when these capacitors fail, they short out (no spark at all) or go open circuit (radio noise, maybe slight misfire). If your bakkie is running but just poorly, check your coil resistance too. I used a Bosch Blue coil on my older Hilux and it made a huge difference compared to the tired stock one.

@musiclover5 The 1RZ distributor condenser failure is actually pretty common here. It cracks the casing and moisture gets in, causing intermittent stalling in the rain.
@user_469432 listen to Jack. The 3rd wire is just a shield earth. I have done this modification on customer cars. Just buy the 2-wire Toyota generic part or even a generic electronic ignition condenser. As long as it is rated for 0.47uF or similar (standard for these) it works.

@A. Smith exactly, the moisture is the killer. On mine, the potting compound on the back of the original condenser had separated from the plastic shell.
@musiclover5 checking the igniter is good advice too, but usually, the igniter is expensive (like $200+) while the condenser is $15. Always start with the cheap stuff. I made the mistake of replacing my HT leads with expensive NGK ones first thinking it was a spark leak, but the problem was that $10 capacitor all along.

I fitted a 2-wire condenser from a Corolla 4A-FE on my 1RZ. Physically looked different but electrically it does the same job.
Just make sure you get the polarity right if the new condenser has marked wires (rare, usually they are non-polarized for the signal but the case is ground). If it has 2 wires coming out of a plastic block, one is live, one is earth.
If you wire it backwards it won't filter anything.

@GeorgeYo how do you identify the polarity on the generic ones? I have a generic spare in my toolbox that has two black wires.
Also @user_469432 check if your local shop has the "Toyota 19133" type condenser. That is the common 2-wire one.

@G. Carter usually on the generic black ones with 2 wires, it doesn't matter which way round they go if the case is plastic. If the case is metal and bolted to the engine, the case is ground and the single wire is live.
But for the plastic ones with 2 wires, it's just a capacitor. It works both ways. The only time it matters is if one wire is internally connected to a mounting tab.
Use a multimeter to check for continuity between the wires and the mounting hole metal.

I would be careful just swapping wires without a diagram.
My brother tried this on his 2004 2.7 (I know it is a different engine, 3RZ) but he fried a fuse because he grounded the live ignition feed.
The 3-wire setup often has +12V, Signal, and Ground on some modern setups, although on the 2002 1RZ it should be the older style Jack mentioned.
Just use a test light. Turn the key to ON. Probe the 3 wires on your harness. One will be 12V (or signal pulse when cranking), one will be ground. Connect your 2-wire condenser across those. Ignore the third.

@Ethan.Knight valid point. On the 1RZ-E (fuel injected) the wiring is a bit more sensitive than the old carb 1RZ.
But the condenser is on the negative side of the coil circuit (IG-). It should not see constant +12V ignition power directly like a heater element. It pulses.
If you short the IG- to ground solidly, you just get no spark. You won't fry the ECU usually, but you might pop the igniter if you leave it shorted while trying to crank for ages.
@user_469432 do you have a multimeter?

Had this on my work bakkie. We just left the condenser off completely when it failed in the bush. Driven it 500km back home with no condenser.
The radio was buzzing like a chainsaw but the engine ran fine.
So if you are stuck, you can just unplug it to get home. Don't stress too much about the perfect 3-wire replacement.

@L.B.X.30 driving without it can shorten the life of your igniter or contact points (if you had them) because of the voltage spikes. The capacitor absorbs the back-EMF spike.
On electronic ignition it is less critical than points but still risky for the module long term.
I'd suggest @user_469432 follows the advice to retrofit the 2-wire.
I used a condenser from a distributor Bosch kit for a Golf Mk1 and crimped new spade terminals. Works 100%.

My 1RZ is ticking over 600k km now. I replaced that condenser 3 times.
The vibration kills them.
I finally cable-tied the new one (2-wire type) to the wiring loom instead of bolting it to the vibrating engine block. No failures in 5 years.
Flexible mounting ftw.

@B. HAMPTON 600k? That is impressive. What oil are you running? My condenser wire snapped at the base last month. I just soldered it back. The 3-wire ones are definitely dealer only parts usually, or "special order" from Denso agents.

@B. HAMPTON is spot on about the vibration. The 1RZ is a tough engine but it rattles everything loose.
That is why the original brackets are so thick.
Cable tie method works well.
@e_howard soldering it back is okay if the break is external, but usually they fail internally.
Anyway, @user_469432, go buy the 2-wire one. Hook it up Signal to Signal, Ground to Ground. Ignore the 3rd wire. You will be back on the road in 20 minutes.

Can confirms. 2 wires works.
Just dont mix up the wires with the crank angle sensor if your distributor has that plug nearby.
The condenser plug is usually grey or black, 2 or 3 pins, small rectangular block.
Crank sensor is usually on the body of the distributor.