HOW TO REPLACE TESLA ABS PUMP 1037797-00-D BMW

Replacing the ABS pump (1037797-00-DBMW, often listed as 1037797-00-D) on a Tesla—like a Model S or X—isn’t quite as easy as swapping out a busted lightbulb, but hey, with some tools, patience, and at least one cup of tea (minimum), you’re on your way!

Here’s the general step-by-step (Tesla-style, but sprinkled with DIY relatable charm):

- Safety first! If your Tesla has air suspension, pop it into “Jack” mode before you lift the car. Disconnect the 12V battery—modern cars can throw a proper wobbly if you yank out modules while they’re powered up, and nobody wants a shocked EV (or a shocked mechanic).
- Gain access: Remove the underhood storage unit (frunk) and the front skid plate—gotta give yourself room to work and hunt for those bolts Tesla hid just out of easy reach. Prepare to spot enough brackets and connectors to make a LEGO set jealous.
- Find the ABS pump/modulator—follow all the brake lines converging in one spot like they’re organizing a tiny pipe party.
- Brake lines galore: Use a flare nut wrench to gently undo all brake lines from the ABS modulator. Plug or cover the open lines—unless you fancied recreating Niagara Falls but with brake fluid (yikes).
- Disconnect the wiring harness. A little tab or latch: squeeze, curse, repeat.
- Unbolt the unit: There are several bolts or nuts securing the ABS pump to a bracket. Remove those (reference torque values during install—these are not “gorilla tight” bolts).
- Remove the pump and bracket out of the car with a bit of gentle persuasion.

Install the new pump is basically the reverse, but with bonus steps:
- Bolt it all back together. Make sure everything’s torqued to spec—no stripping or Hulk power.
- Reconnect brake lines, making sure the right pipe goes to the right hole (take pics before you start if you’re the “what goes where again?” type).
- Reconnect the wiring and any sensors.

- ABSOLUTELY bleed the brake system (yes, all four corners! Air in your lines is about as useful as a chocolate teapot). You’ll need Tesla’s Toolbox 3 or a compatible scan tool to run the electronic pump during bleeding; modern EV brakes demand a digital handshake for a full flush.
- Firmware check: Tesla recommends reloading or updating firmware for best performance. (Magic words: “ESP configuration.”)
- Final pro-tip: Keep a close eye for leaks, warning lights, or “help me!” dashboard messages once you’re done.

In summary: It’s a meaty DIY, but totally doable if you’re handy, patient, and don’t mind the odd brake fluid shower. If you’re not keen on computers and software bleeding, maybe phone a Tesla-friendly mechanic—no shame in that.

Don’t let brake fluid touch the paint, unless you secretly fancy a polka-dot hood. And yeah, you’ll probably drop at least one socket deep into the frunk abyss—may it rest in peace.

Good luck! May your ABS be snappy and your hands remain only slightly oily.